Getting the Scoop on Wilcoxson’s Ice Cream
By Kris King
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Wilcoxson's Bar 1964
Livingston, Montana
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The morphing of taste and texture, of cool, creamy, and sweet, from hard to supple to fluid on your tongue is ice cream’s magic. All life’s sorrows melt away for as long as the ice cream lasts. And this escape is accessible to all (except perhaps lactose-intolerant diabetics).
Wilcoxson’s ice cream, in particular, is ubiquitously available around Montana, widely beloved, and has been for nearly a century. But, as accessible as Wilcoxson’s ice cream is, getting the scoop on them is anything but accessible; it’s downright top secret.
Wilcoxson’s is headquartered in an anonymous, unmarked building with a back alley entrance and doors locked to the public. While their phone is readily answered, numerous interview requests are rebuffed. The handoff of company photographs takes place under the cover of night at a neutral location. Something as sunny and feel-good as ice cream is generally not cloaked in secrecy, but Wilcoxson’s is unique in many ways.
Wilcoxson’s was established in 1912 in Livingston, Montana. Initially specializing in candy making, the founders began churning premium ice cream in 1917. After nearly a century, Wilcoxson’s ice cream has achieved the status of a local institution, cultural treasure, family tradition, and for many—acute addiction. “I’ve used Wilcoxson’s Peanut Butter Chip ice cream to cure every ailment that’s strayed across my path,” confesses Nora Smith, MSU Academic Advisor, who scooped Wilcoxson’s at Bozeman’s Pickle Barrel for a decade. “It’s the best ice cream around for certain, and we serve it because it’s made locally. People love Wilcoxson’s ice cream, and we go through tons of it in the summer. Many people come in just for the ice cream,” says Denise Sararazin, Assistant General Manager of the Pop Shop in Livingston, whose favorite flavor is Pecan Praline.
While Wilcoxson’s ice cream is in the limelight at dozens of regional businesses, the people who make Wilcoxson’s are notoriously shy of the spotlight. “We don’t let anybody into our production factory,” explains Roberta Martin, who has worked in Wilcoxson’s office for 28 years. Harold Wilcoxson, octogenarian son of the founder, still comes to work every day and is in earshot of incoming phone calls but doesn’t take phone calls himself. General Manager Matt Schaeffer is genial, but too busy to answer questions. “It’s always been like that,” says second-generation Wilcoxson’s restaurant worker Annette Burns.
Unlike many businesses today that link profit to mass marketing, Wilcoxson’s balks at marketing campaigns and media attention. “They are a closely held family corporation, and don’t buy advertising or give interviews,” explains John Fryer of Sax & Fryer. Wilcoxson’s logo is the same white script and red background it’s been for decades and serves as their sole advertising conveyed by delivery trucks, in-store freezers, and ice cream containers. After 90 years in business, Wilcoxson’s is content to let their product speak for itself.
And indeed it does – everyone I spoke to about Wilcoxson’s could immediately name their favorite flavor. When Tiffani Zimmerman, Animal Behavior Specialist at the Stafford Animal Shelter, was asked, she got a dreamy look in her eye and said, “Peanut Butter Chip, because it’s salty and creamy and yummalicious.” Chris Seaton prefers Moose Tracks and says, “What’s not to like about big chunks of chocolate?” as she helps customers at Sky Federal Credit Union.
People’s fondness for ice cream changes very little generation after generation. “I think ice cream reminds people of their childhood and good times. You share ice cream with good friends,” says Martin, who favors the versatility of Wilcoxson’s French Vanilla. Wilcoxson’s appeal has remained consistent over the years. “All people want is to buy something quality made, consistent, and at a good price,” Martin says. “The people may change, but their relationship with the ice cream has not.” She explains that Wilcoxson’s has been able to consistently produce a high quality product for 90 years, “by being able to keep the business local, small and hands-on, and not growing too fast.”
In 1912, Carl Wilcoxson and Harry Swingley started Wilcoxson’s Kandy Kitchen (archived ads read, “Klean Kandy, Karefully Koncocted Konfections, Kream Karamels at Wilcoxson’s Kandy Kitchen.”) In 1917, Wilcoxson began his ice-cream empire with Joe Reugg at the 116 South Main Street, Livingston. Carl and his wife Esther remodeled the location numerous times between its incarnation as a manufacturing plant, confectioner, ice-cream parlor, soda fountain, and restaurant. Their son, Harold, joined the business in 1946, and is still involved today. “He’s definitely hands on,” says Martin. “He comes in every day and fixes electrical, mechanical, and refrigeration problems.” She says of her boss, whose favorite flavor is Chocolate, “He’s a wonderful man to work for.”
For nearly half a century, the Wilcoxson’s shop on Main Street was a Livingston community cornerstone. The space retains its original tin ceiling but little else from that era, which is currently the Sport Next Door bar. At one time, both candy and ice cream were manufactured at the site and in its heyday, Wilcoxson’s served breakfast, lunch, and dinner in addition to their housemade candies, sodas, and ice cream.
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Wilcoxson's Kandy Kitchen 1929
Livingston, Montana
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Wilcoxson’s was the place for dates, family outings, or to pass the time with friends at the soda fountain counter. “It was a safe and classy place for kids to go after school, there were lots of booths and everything was always spotless and maintained perfectly,” says Fryer whose favorite flavor is Vanilla, “They were really kid friendly, and people rarely misbehaved. It was great.” Annette Burns, whose current favorite flavor is the new Chuckleberry, was a fountain girl in the mid-1970’s and made sundaes, shakes, and sodas. “Sundaes were the most popular,” she recalls. “Wilcoxson’s was a central part of the community,” Burns says. “It was right on Main Street and everybody went there. When I was a kid, we all went there for the francheesey, a hot dog with cheese wrapped in bacon.” She laments, “I’m sorry to see all the soda fountains like that gone away; they were really special. ”While the restaurant ran until a decade ago, the Wilcoxsons sold the location and candy business in 1967 to focus on the ice cream business, which they moved to the present location several blocks away. The next step in expanding the ice cream business was to open a second plant in Billings. The Livingston plant makes the three-gallon, five-quart, half-gallon, quart, and pint bulk ice cream, and the following novelties: Nutty Royale, Frosty Malt, Twist Cups, 4 oz. cups, and Cake Rolls. Their Billings plant makes Ice Cream Bars, (Vanilla, Coffee, and Mint), Fudge Bars, Ice Cream Sandwiches (Vanilla and Chocolate with chocolate cookies, and Strawberry ice cream with a vanilla cookie). Wilcoxson’s has not registered trademarks for any of their flavors or novelty names, so others do make versions of their products. If you purchase something that tastes different, check the label—someone other than Wilcoxson’s likely makes it.
Interestingly, Moose Tracks is a franchise, so many companies make Moose Tracks ice creams. However, Wilcoxson’s version of Moose Tracks has a special place in many people’s hearts. “I remember the day Moose Tracks arrived at the Pickle Barrel,” says Smith. “It was a whole new planet of ice cream; never has Vanilla been so Vanilla or Chocolate so Chocolate.” Livingston City Commissioner Vicki Blakeman’s favorite is Moose Tracks because, “I like a lot of stuff in my ice cream.”
Matt Schaeffer and Production Manager Laurie Ford do Wilcoxson’s flavor research and development. Wilcoxson’s has numerous memorable flavors – from the bright Bubble Gum to the dark Chocolate Runs Through It to their seasonal flavors, Pumpkin and Eggnog. Wilcoxson’s top sellers are Vanilla and Moose Tracks. Martin lists Huckleberry and Moose Tracks as favorites with tourists. While Wilcoxson’s is anything but trendy, they do make low-fat flavors, frozen yogurt with live cultures, and no sugar-added ice cream for hospitals and convalescence homes. Chocolate frozen yogurt is the favorite of Megan Shaw, PBS Master Control Operator, who says, “I love the rich chocolate smell, and that it’s made locally.”
Today, Wilcoxson’s employs between 20-25 staff, depending on the season, including their delivery drivers. “We try hard to make sure our drivers are home at night—they don’t do overnight stays,” explains Martin. “Plus, the trucks are cleaned every day—they are important advertising.” Wilcoxson’s is delivered as close as the Pickle Barrel a block away in Livingston, and as far as the Cove Deli in Polson, Montana. Their products are available at specialty shops, hospitals, convalescence centers, grocery and convenience stores, restaurants, and ice cream parlors. They’ve been delivering ice cream to Yellowstone National Park since 1927, introducing Wilcoxson’s to Park visitors from all over the world. “We often have calls and letters from people who’ve had Wilcoxson’s in the Park and want it sent to them, but we can’t do that,” regrets Martin. “It would cost as much as $100 for a half gallon.
”Local businesses have long carried Wilcoxson’s products, and for many they’ve been a major part of their business. Mark’s In and Out Drive-In has been serving Wilcoxson’s since 1954. Owner Scott Black, whose favorite flavor is Chocolate, sells both Wilcoxson’s cones and shakes. He says Mark’s In and Out has always carried Wilcoxson’s because, “other than the fact that we grew up with it in our freezer as kids, and they are a hometown company, and we’ve been serving it for over 50 years, I just think it’s a really good ice cream—as good as the so called “premium” ice creams.” Black sells lots of Wilcoxson’s in the summer. “There’s a late night crowd in the summertime, people out for a walk or drive who pop in specifically for an ice cream.” He serves Wilcoxson’s exclusively, “Every once in while we are approached by another company, but if I have brand loyalty to anyone, it’s to them—I could never, ever envision serving anything else.”
Bozeman Pickle Barrel owner and Graham Slam ice-cream fan, Kerry Olson, says, “When we decided to open the ice-cream shop, there wasn’t any question as to what ice cream we would carry, and then when we met Mr. Wilcoxson, we really knew.” She recalls, “It was like ‘oh, there really is a Santa Claus.’ They make a great product and Wilcoxson’s has a long family history, has always taken great pride, and the factory is pristine. We had a good rapport with them right off.” Livingston Pickle Barrel owner Karla Pettit, whose favorite flavor is Peanut Butter Chip, says, “It’s absolutely the best ice cream and that’s why we carry it. Wilcoxson’s is a novelty for tourists who comment on how inexpensive it is and then are taken by the fact that it is made right here in Livingston.” She adds, “I do believe it is the very best ice cream there is, so I’m pretty excited it
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Wilcoxson's Ice Cream 1915
Livingston, Montana
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comesright out of Livingston.” Higher end restaurants, too, include Wilcoxson’s on their dessert menus. Montana’s Rib & Chop House Manager Dave Sullivan, whose favorite flavor is Vanilla, summarizes why they serve Wilcoxson’s, “It’s tasty, it’s popular, and it’s local.”
People enjoy their favorite Wilcoxson’s ice cream at home too, since it is widely available at local grocery and convenience stores. The truth is I scream, you scream, we all scream for ice cream.
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