Small Wineries with Big Wines Arrive in Montana
By Kris King
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Cristom Vineyard
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The state of Montana may not be an ideal place to grow grapes, but increasingly it is an ideal place to consume grapes in their most evolved, transcendant state: wine. When life under the Big Sky gets dry and dusty, frigid or snowy, we can simply uncork and sip liquid stories of more temperate climates. Veteran wine seller Mary Neff of Joe’s Parkway in Bozeman has observed Montanans’ growing relationship with wine, “The difference in the last 10 years has been remarkable – not just in increased interest in wine, but increased wine knowledge. Even if people know little about wine, they know they like it, and want to get more involved.” Another reason for Montanans to love wine, as it turns out, is that our wild game and grass-fed livestock are best when served with a glass of wine.
At the crest of Montana’s growing passion for wine are small, family-owned wineries and vineyards producing exquisite, deliberate bottles that capture the consumable union of sun and rain and soil. Recognizing Montanans’ growing hunger for unique wines, Chelsey George of George’s Distributing, a family owned state-wide distributing business, returned from a wine education in California four years ago to specialize in small family-owned wineries. “Our wines are unique and important to both the knowledgeable and emerging wine consumers,” she explains. “People are less and less interested in big winery names,” says Sommelier Brian Menges of Livingston’s 2nd Street Bistro. “This is my 13th year buying wine and I’ve seen an amazing progression of an average person’s palate and what they are willing to buy and play around with. Even in the last two years at the restaurant, we’ve seen regulars become more adventurous with wine. People are asking their sommeliers to push their palates now. ”
Where they used to venture out with price, now they are venturing out with obscure varietals from unknown regions at low price points.”
More and more Montana restaurants and specialty stores stock wine catering to a wide range of palates and pocketbooks, as well as knowledgeable staff eager to introduce customers to a new favorite wine. Doug Badenock of Bozeman’s Wine Gallery remarks, “The wine business is the least stressful business you can be in because customers are always happy – they come in looking for wine to celebrate with. Wine puts an exclamation mark on any festivity.” Deb Endres of Livingston’s Gourmet Cellar has noticed, “More and more people are reading about wine and looking for wine they’ve researched. They are branching out from long-standing standards such as Chardonnay and Cabernet. People increasingly ask for recommendations and more information about wine varietals, regions, and vineyards they’ve heard about.” She adds, “People enjoy learning about wine and I enjoy teaching; it’s really fulfilling to share that knowledge and have people come back excited and ready for more after trying something new.”
While wine education can be exhausting (or inebriating), enjoying wine is in no way limited to oenophile scholars. The prevailing wisdom about wine is that if you like it, it’s good. Everyone’s palate is different and you are the only authority on what you like. However, in addition to asking for recommendations and doing research (drinking and thinking about wine is pretty great homework), wine tastings are an excellent way to expand what you like and understand why. “The learning curve is so steep in a wine tasting class because you are making relative comparisons,” says teacher Jill Richards at her first wine tasting. Wine tasting host Annette Leland says, “Wine tastings can introduce you to obscure varietals and wineries that you are less likely to try on your own.” Fellow wine-taster and Vista Volunteer Melissa Paduano says, “Whenever you are learning in a social atmosphere, you don’t even realize you are learning.” She adds, “It’s great to learn the difference between $10 and $20 wines and why they are worth it. You aren’t just buying a buzz, but an experience with these fabulous wines.”
While wine can be a revelation on its own, it’s at its best with food. “Wine is food, a key part of a meal – planning a menu should include meat, starch, vegetable, and the appropriate wine,” maintains Leland. “Pairing wine with food is one of the favorite parts of my job,” says Endres of the Gourmet Cellar. “I love coming up with meals to complement specific bottles of wine.”
Aaron Davis, B Bar Chef, observes another important element, “The health benefits of red wines are astonishing; plus drinking a glass during a meal slows your consumption rate down and helps digestion. People in this country eat so fast; they eat in their car, they eat on the run. Wine helps you stop and experience the healthful enjoyment of a fine meal.” While pairing food with wine can be as intimidating as choosing a wine, asking for suggestions and experimenting with different combinations can be highly rewarding. Food pairing suggestions are included in the profiles of the handful of small, independent wineries featured in this article. The passion of these winemakers and sellers is evident, and available to us with each uncorking.
McCrea Cellars
McCrea Cellars is owned and operated by two couples dedicated to limited bottlings of the Washington State premium Rhône varietals they have pioneered, including: Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, Mourvèdre, Roussanne, and Counoise. Washington vines enjoy cooler weather and generate earthier, darker berry flavors than their Californian and Australian counterparts’ bouncier fruit flavors. Winemaker and former musician Doug McCrea says, “A winemaker captures the grape’s subtle aromas and flavors, nurturing and expanding these elements… Like musical improvisation, the performer begins with a melody and transforms it, applying his personal expression or signature.” Try McCrea’s $29 southern Rhône style 2002 Sirocco blend; primary Grenache grapes give full body, Syrah adds muscle, and Mourvèdre gives a layer of leather. An appealing food pairing would be local game sausage sautéed with fresh fennel and apples over wild rice.
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Lapis Luna
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Lapis Luna Vineyards
Lapis Luna was founded in 2000 by three partners, Michael Florian, Bruce Wise, and Sal Nuccio, who wanted to create high quality, value-priced, and varietal-correct wines that weren’t buried in oak flavors, with berry, citrus, or tropical flavors apparent in each sip. Lapis Luna means “Moonstone” in Latin and they contract grapes from small, family owned California vineyards. Try a glass of Lapis Merlot Vin de Pays 2002; it’s a classic soft, jammy Merlot with low acid and a clean finish that would balance a dark chocolate bar or bittersweet chocolate berry torte nicely.
Robert Biale Vineyards
The Biale family has been growing Zinfandel grapes in Napa since the 1930s and formed a partnership 12 years ago to produce world-class wine from the oldest Zinfandel vines on the ranch. The team: Al Perry, winemaking; Dave Pramuk, marketing; Aldo and Bob Biale, farming are now recognized as being among California’s finest producers of California’s specialty grape, Zinfandel, which can be enjoyed while young. “They are one of the single best Zinfandel producers; it drinks better than more highly priced wines and doesn’t get too alcoholic. It’s easy for Zins to be almost like Port,” says Menges. Only 300 cases of their Pioneer Series Grande 2003 were produced and it is a gem worth finding for about $80 at restaurants. This is a wine whose complexity and multiple personalities make a strong case for pricier wines. As it opens up, each glass reveals entirely different flavors. The Zinfandel begins with a stinging alcohol nose and brambleberry fruit bursting on the tongue, moves on to a more dusty berry patina, with rich Christmas spiced berries to follow. The next glass swerves into an earthy, sea salt balance, followed by a minerally spring-water flavor with a tannic bite, and the final glass is plush with velvety ripe roundness and a dry finish. This exquisite wine would be happily married to a bacon-wrapped game bird and rosemary risotto.
Miner Family Vineyards
Miner Family Vineyards encompasses multiple family vineyards in Napa Valley, Mendocino County, Santa Lucia Highlands, and the Central Valley and produces a wide range of red, white, and rose’ varietals . Dave Miner says of Chardonnay, which has fallen from favor for many, “Great Chardonnay should speak to you. It should make you think, and draw you back into the glass for further contemplation and exploration of the senses. At Miner, we handcraft our Chardonnays in the Burgundian style, using carefully selected fruit from low yielding, hillside vineyards for great natural acidity. The result is a clean, fresh wine that continues to evolve in the glass, over a meal, or over a lifetime in the cellar.” Try Miner’s 2004 Napa Valley Chardonnay for around $35 if you like full, oaky whites with juicy, floral notes. This bright, smoky wine could stand up to Montana surf and turf – grilled bison steak and trout.
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Paul Hobbs
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Paul Hobbs Wines
Paul Hobbs has been specializing in sourcing fruit from vineyards like “a truffle hunting dog” and innovatively using wild yeast fermented, single-vineyard, terroir-driven, 100% varietal, unfiltered wines since 1991. His artisan minimalist philosophy includes sustainably farmed vineyards, hand-harvested and sorted grapes, and a gravity flow winery that produces wine with old world character and new world accessibility. Hobbs says, “I started paying attention at an early age. Specifically, the day my dad brought home a bottle of 1962 Château d’Yquem, and poured it into little Dixie paper cups around the family dinner table. The bouquet, the flavor, and the experience made an impression in me.” He processes small lot, vineyard-designated Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Pick up his 2002 Napa Cabernet for about $70 to drink between 2007 and 2014. Expect harmonious layers of currant, black cherry, and plum to unfold gracefully and leave a pleasingly complex aftertaste. This is the wine to splurge on with an organic Montana grass-fed leg of lamb.
Cristom
This Oregon winery was named after owner Paul Gerrie’s children Christine and Tom (merged into Cristom). He purchased his first vineyard in 1992 and makes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Viognier from vineyards named after family members. Cristom winemaker Steve Doerner is highly respected and seen as a mentor by many of his peers. While all their varietals are compelling, Cristom’s Pinot Noirs are garnering special attention. “Oregon Pinots are more full bodied; they are earthy and rich with bright red fruit and a strong backbone – like a gymnast that can flip around but has strong shoulders,” muses Menges. Indeed, Oregon Pinot Noirs have been discovered and their price has risen considerably. A great find, though, is a $15.50 split of Cristom’s Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Mt. Jefferson Cuvee 2002; you’ll find subtle blackberry notes in a luscious, earthy wine with a long finish ideal to serve with grilled salmon in a mustard cream sauce over savory lentils.
Rosenblum Cellars
This winery is an indie rockstar of the California wine set. “Rosenblum is making the best Zins in California in my opinion,” says Neff. Their vineyards are cropped to keep yields low and flavor concentration high. Rosenblum’s renowned portfolio of more than 40 wines from top vineyards includes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne. The wine is crafted at their Alameda winery, and winemaker Jeff Cohn is in great demand as an industry spokesperson. He explains, “Winemaking is more of a passion than a business for us. However, what often happens in life is that quality is recognized and the financial end takes care of itself. Being a small family-run business that started as a hobby gives us the chance to keep the fires burning and the passion flowing. And the wine also.” Rosenblum Zinfandels “satisfy very diverse palates,” observes wine taster Nancy Kessler. “I like the smoky nose, sweet fruitiness and big, round flavor,” adds fellow-sipper Lara Salazar. While trying Rosenblum Zinfandels may be mandatory, their whites are interesting as well. Kathy’s Cuvee Viognier 2005 at $18 bottle has vibrant tropical fruit notes with a creamy finish ideally served with blue cheese drizzled with honey.
Heron Wines
Laely Heron’s unconventional upbringing abroad may explain the wanderlust that has led to her passion for international winemaking and her fearlessness as a woman in a male-dominated field. For the past decade, Heron has made wine in France, Spain, and the United States with small-lot, hands-on winemaking techniques in French oak from low-yielding, maritime-influenced vineyards. “Her wines are consistently good,” Menges explains. “We call them ‘banker wines’ because you can bank on them, plus she doesn’t bury the fruit in oak.” Her California wine portfolio includes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet, and Syrah. A great, everyday wine to try would be her $10 Pinot Noir 2003; it’s a simple wine with ripe cherry aromas and a smooth finish that is light and bouncy on the tongue and good enough to sip without food.
You can sip, soaking up the sun, and enjoy grapes ripened under the same sun in a different place and time but bottled just for your enjoyment. Cheers!
For information on upcoming wine tastings, contact the Gourmet Cellar at 406/222-5418 or The Wine Gallery at 406/586-8828, and don’t miss The Museum of the Rockies’ 2006 Vintage Yellowstone Wine Classic July 8th (406-994-4974).
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