Seeley Lake, String Of Jewels
By Sarah Reeves
The winding stretch of Highway 83 North between Clearwater Junction (the one with the cow, you can’t miss it) and Swan Lake quite possibly contains eighty of the most aesthetically agreeable highway miles in America. As the end of one lake fades from the rearview mirror, simply round another bend and there is another lake, just as stunning as the last. Strung together by the Swan River to the north and the Clearwater River to the south, they resemble a graceful sapphire necklace.
Highway 83 North peels away from Highway 200 somewhere between Ovando and Bonner, heads straight for less than a mile and then promptly begins to curve. Anyone with less than an iron stomach would do well to put down any reading materials at this point and roll down the window. The fresh air and views are too exhilarating to miss.
The first lake to appear at around mile marker five is Salmon Lake. A few cabins dot the side of the road where there is enough flat space between the highway and the lake; the next set of buildings is Legendary Lodge, a summer camp for youth. On the opposite side of the lake, a short hike south from the campers’ cabins, in the upper-most reaches of one of the trees, is a bald eagle’s nest. The lake also hosts a beaver dam, fish, ducks, and—when this writer was a camper at Legendary Lodge we were warned—a lily pad monster.
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Chuckwagon Meadow at Rich Ranch Lodge
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Further up the road is the Salmon Lake State Park Recreation Site. There are several places like this in the general area—campgrounds, fishing access points and boat ramps—at Forest Service designated locations. In fact, there is another one just down the road and around the corner at Placid Lake. For more information about these areas, look for a free guide at the Chamber of Commerce or the Seeley Lake Ranger Station.
Near the north end of the lake is the Montana Island Lodge. Over the years it has become a classy establishment for business conferences, family reunions, weddings, and basically anything a group might need it for. Just up the road, the Double Arrow Resort and Holland Lake Lodge also provide such amenities. Double Arrow also boasts a championship golf course, and Holland Lake Lodge provides a base camp for trips into the Bob Marshall Wilderness.
Right around mile marker fourteen begins downtown Seeley Lake. Most anything a person might need—grocery store, post office, gift shops, restaurants, lodging—is right along the highway. However, much like the residents, not everything about Seeley Lake is apparent from that brief morsel of road.
All of it is incredibly easy to miss if you close your eyes for even a minute while traveling along Highway 83 North. To get a better idea of the town and its goings-on, pick up a copy of the Pathfinder at Wold’s Valley Market or Rovero’s.
During the winter the area is occupied by snowmobilers, ice fishermen, and about 2,000 hearty residents. Later, as the last bit of frozen lake thaws, the summer residents, or “snow birds,” as they are affectionately dubbed, begin to descend. By the height of the summer season, the population will have doubled to over 4,000.
Seeley Lake doesn’t draw crowds with waterslides, roller coasters, shopping malls, performing arts centers, or nightclubs—in fact, it capitalizes on its lack of noise, flashing lights and traffic jams. “People come from all over the country to see this place,” says local resident Marion Burmeister, “and I actually live here.”
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Girl and Horse
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On the other hand, if some members of your party are children, “young at heart,” or just plain incapable of sitting still, there are ways to keep them from driving everyone else crazy. One resident has built the Canyon Falls & Western Railway, an actual train ride around his own back yard. The Seeley-Swan YMCA Outreach Program also provides lots of fun activities for kids. Later in the summer is a triathlon, which just last year started as one high school student’s senior project and is now becoming an annual event. And just last year the whole town pooled its skills and resources to build the Eagle’s Nest Playground behind the elementary school, open to the public during the summer. You could also head over to the Seeley Lake Ranger Station for one of their Campfire Programs. If you happen to be in town over the Fourth of July, you could check out the local parade and fireworks. And of course there are water sports. Wake boards, wave runners, water skis, and other such toys are available to rent in town, much to the fishermen’s chagrin. To top it all off, the Ice Cream Place is open all day to provide the much-needed fuel for the next event.
Those with a hankering for a peaceful afternoon might like to peruse local art galleries such as Littlebird’s Schoolhouse—and grab a bite to eat while you’re there—or check out the Grizzly Claw or the Stage Station. Paintings, photographs, pottery, literature and jewelry are created and sold locally. Most artists in the area belong to the Alpine Artisans, a nonprofit organization dedicated to “promoting and preserving the arts in western Montana.” They bring performing arts to the area through the Two Valleys Stage series, as well as all kinds of art-endorsing events such as the Loon & Fish Festival, Beer & Brats, and Tour of the Arts. For more information about the Alpine Artisans, check out their Web site at www.alpineartisans.org.
For the outdoor enthusiast, just about anything is possible, from wildlife viewing to whitewater rafting. Seeley Lake is smack in the middle of wild country. Highway 83 cuts right through Lolo National Forest, where camping, boating, fishing and hiking opportunities abound. Just northeast of town is the Morrell Falls Trail, a gentle five miles round-trip and perfect day hike. To the west lies the Mission Mountain Wilderness area, and to the east the Bob Marshall, the largest wilderness area in America. Hike, backpack or ride horseback through Montana backcountry that is not accessible by highway. There are several outfitters in the area to help with any of your equestrian needs. To the south are the Clark Fork and Blackfoot rivers, where fishing and whitewater rafting are popular activities. And to the north is Glacier National Park.
At the end of the day, dinner can be found anywhere from the Filling Station, a local bar known for its huckleberry barbeque ribs and inexpensive beer, to the gourmet restaurants at Double Arrow Resort and Holland Lake Lodge. Lindey’s Prime Steak House is the only restaurant I know of that can be reached by land, water or air. Some steak-lovers stop in town entirely because of Lindey’s secret recipe. Vegetarians, on the other hand, are better off elsewhere. Steak is the only entrée on the menu.
As you travel north from Seeley Lake you will come to Lake Inez, Lake Alva and Lindbergh Lake. For a good canoe and incredible sunsets, these are prime waters. Just past Lindbergh is Holland Lake, and the tranquil Holland Lake Lodge. A couple more miles up the road is yet another steak house worth mentioning, the Hungry Bear.
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Cook Shack Seeley Lake, MT
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Most travelers find they have the road to themselves. If traffic does happen to build up, there is almost certainly a precariously-balanced lumber truck, a heart-stopping sunset, or a deer, bear, or eagle at the head of it. Deer-induced collisions in particular are all too common in this area and all drivers should keep their eyes peeled—not just in front, but for imminent launches from the sides of the road as well. The good news is that any traveler who encounters serious car trouble will have little trouble finding help. Despite the fact that these highways are less traveled than most, or perhaps because of it, the next driver to happen by will very likely slow down, roll down the window, and holler “Are you okay?” or something to that effect. And if the answer happens to be “no,” they will very likely stick around and lend whatever services they can until a more permanent solution comes along. No one seems to be in a big hurry here, or has somewhere more important to be. The Seeley Swan Valley is the ultimate “get away from it all” escape. Just watch out for the deer.
Anything you could possibly want to know about the Seeley Swan Valley can be learned at the Chamber of Commerce, which doubles as the Historical Museum. It’s located in the old barn at the south end of town. Contact: (406) 677-2880, www.seeleylakechamber.com.
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